Pescado al Espeto – Skewer-Grilled Fish
Ingredientes
Talking about pescado al espeto means talking about cooking in the open air, a natural cuisine of woodsmoke aromas and unmasked flavours. But talking about pescado al espeto also means talking about chiringuitos, the beachside eateries, since without them this age-old way of cooking fish would very likely have disappeared long ago. This way of cooking fish, skewered on a split cane and grilled over embers, ideally from old olive wood, is so distinctive that there is a push to have it protected through UNESCO’s Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage.
The fish used above all, from the beaches of Nerja to those of Manilva, in every self-respecting chiringuito, is the sardine, ideally one from the Alboran Sea, whose plankton is far more nutritious for local species. The sardines eaten in Malaga are those caught from June to September, which is also when their fat content is at its best, making for an exceptional oily fish rich in omega-3, right in the middle of summer.
Although the Malaga coast is the most famous for sardines and skewer-grilled fish, this traditional way of roasting fish is also found along the coasts of Granada and Almeria.
Depending on whether it is sardine, horse mackerel, mackerel or sea bass, the way it is skewered and grilled will vary. Even molluscs like squid or octopus can be skewered and grilled this way. Some chiringuitos even offer large fish such as sea bream or turbot, which call for trickier, more demanding cooking.
With the blessing of the skilled espeteros of Malaga, here are a few basic pointers on how to skewer and grill some sardines, though the best and easiest way to enjoy them is at any of the hundreds of chiringuitos found across the province.
Assuming you have a wood fire and some sharpened canes to hand…
Instructions
First, the embers need to be upwind of the breeze to stop the fish from burning on the outside before it is cooked through. Split the canes open so you get a sharp half-cane at each end; skewers similar to Turkish kebab sticks also work.
The sardines should be skewered through the back and threaded through the belly, so that seven or eight small sardines per cane end up strung with the backbone underneath the cane; it is essential not to break the spine. Season generously with coarse salt.
Position the cane with the backbone side down first, since that will be the first side to be grilled. Leave for around 3-4 minutes, then turn the cane to grill the other side for the same amount of time. Place the sardines on a plate and remove the cane. A few drops of lemon on top if you like.
Curiosity
It is the people of the sea who know the traditional way of grilling fish over wood embers as “amoragar”. The word comes from “moraga”, a term associated with a beach party or gathering, though it actually has Arabic roots (‘muhraqa’), meaning to burn or scorch.
